MASHA POPOVA

From hot girl summer veterans to brat summer idolizers, MASHA POPOVA’s presentation at London Fashion Week may have just set the tone for Spring/Summer ’25. Hosted at 180 Studios alongside this season’s most exciting breakout talents, Popova’s collection emerged in a wonderfully curated, gritty glamour that exuded spontaneity. In the lead-up to the show, digital invites featured a whimsically illustrated character in a scrapbook-like style, striking a cheeky pose that teasingly revealed just a hint of the bottom—figuratively and literally.

Titled ‘Impulse,’ the collection virtually narrated what we’d imagine to be the main character of its ongoing storyline, featuring a somewhat messy and rushed persona, briefly glimpsed ‘on the go’ as if she were a local tale rushing out the door. In fact, the delusion she was fed may resonate with many, but it’s really the ease of ‘cool girl’ that Popova redefined, arguably dismantling any trace of the ‘clean girl aesthetic’ we’ve seen too much of this year. Instead, models strutted out with a palpable sense of attitude, wearing hyper-feminine silhouettes juxtaposed with leather bottoms and barely-there thongs. The color palette oscillated between muted earth tones and vibrant hues of burnt sienna, raspberry pink, and stonewashed blue, capturing a sense of playful chaos.

Building on this theme of bold contrasts, velvet fabrics made a comeback in high-hemmed minis with dramatically scooped fronts, radiating an overall fluidity that hinted at 80s glam clubwear. Alongside these standout pieces, a few coats featured broad padded shoulders reminiscent of a ‘power suit,’ while biker jackets and coats with exaggerated lapels made an appearance too. Denim, a Masha Popova signature, was everywhere—frayed, distressed, and sliced open to reveal skin in unexpected places, as if crafted in a moment of Impulse. The pieces felt unfinished in the best possible way, evocative of the aftermath of a party: spontaneous, liberated, and utterly authentic.

Accessories played a crucial role in this narrative, with oversized glasses frequently appearing atop messy bed-heads–not the result of a wild night out, but a deliberate touch crafted by hairstylist Janina Zais. The 2000s indie sleaze may have had a little ‘80s love child, as its underground, lo-fi grunge and almost ironic hint of glam work so well together, echoing the all-too-known influences of Kate Moss or Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. MUA Grace Ellington maintained a fresh, bare-faced look, hydrating skin with The Ordinary Phytoceramides cream; it seemed that the idea was to make it look like slept-in makeup without the next day’s crustiness. Some models sported a subtle liner along the lower lash line and dewy lids, while others had colorful, see-through nail appliqués.

Popova captured the essence of girlhood through a deliberately unpolished mix of influences–uncertain, offbeat, and impossibly fun. A concoction of becoming, embracing the messiness, the chaos, and all the in-betweens. Because girlhood is just as empowering as it is a little awkward.