In Paris, the starting day is dedicated to first shows and baby brands, often called «emerging» – with a certain despise by the fashion authorities i.e the very old school Fédération de la Couture et de la Mode. The subtext of the official schedule could be «You cannot compete with bigger names, anyway». That is so wrong. For his very first show in Paris (after his runaway debuts last season in Florence), Fumito Ganryu  shows he’s ready for the first league. The former Comme des Garçons protégé is delivering a straight-to-the-point opus, with a restrained color palette, but not in a minimalistic manner. Oversized duffle coats and puff jackets are a perfect evolution for a designer once considered as a workwear expert but his twisted suits have also a very alluring legitimacy. To be followed. Right away.