La vie en rose: Dreamy textures and colors at the Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2019 show in New York.

[Photo]
Benjamin Lozovsky
[Editor]
Laura Dunkelmann
September 18, 2018

The American Dream

Couture from head to toe: In his SS 19 show Marc Jacobs presented an extravagant vision of fashion and beauty – big hair included.

Cool casting: Model Sarah Abney (seen in TUSH 42) for Marc Jacobs.

Star of the show: Sasha Komarova (seen in TUSH 41) swinging it in feathers.

Dressed up: Mixed materials and dreamy details.
Perfect pair: Make-up matched fashion.

She's got the powder: Adwoa Aboah's buzz cut was dyed in soft pink.

More than 30 unique shades of cotton candy hair color. Countless veils, top hats, lace, glittery gowns, and chunky costume accessories. Boundless enthusiasm. In the dreamy world of Marc Jacobs, where outlandish ideas become reality, everything is fair game for his Spring Summer 2019 Collection, Jacobs crafted extravagance. Referencing Couture more than ready to wear aesthetics, he created a vibe that felt powdered instead of polished, with a fantastical future-retro-glow. Replete with historical references, the styling nevertheless felt fresh to American fashion – and beauty.

In a time when many designers keep hair and make-up minimal, especially when the clothes go wild, Jacobs was not afraid to pair his collection with an equally extraordinary beauty styling. For Jacobs, hair can be an accessory, just like jewelry, existing not to drawing attention from the clothes, but to complete and even accentuating the vision of the collection.

 

Perfect teasing: The modern bouffant worn by Kaia Gerber.

„We’re nodding to the idea of a ‘finish,’ the idea of a dreamlike quality or fantasy to the hair,“ explains hairstylist and Redken Global Creative Director and hairstylist Palau.
That fuzzy, otherworldly yet nostalgic feeling exuded throughout all the looks; 60’s and Nefertiti inspired updos that floated into a softly curled ponytail,  fluffy egg shaped Streisand-bobs teased with incredible volume, and fine buzz cuts drifting sweetly like small clouds on a bright day.
„How do you do this at home? You don’t,“ states Palau laughing. Unless you’ve got a Guido at home of course, which is just a different fantasy.

So even the hairstyle showed true craftsmanship and knowledge of technique (no extensions were used, so teasing was as intense as essential). „This is an example of taking dressing hair up to the extreme. It’s not about the technicality of the hair – it’s about keeping this hair a fantasy“, adds Palau.

 

Edgy contrast: Only nails were kept natural - and groomed by Jin Soon.
Draped to perfection: Chiffon veils and satin collars.

The beauty of these styles lies in the balance between retro shapes and modern textures (nothing helmet-y here), matte finishes and chic silhouettes – perfectly instep with the theatrical appeal of the clothing.

Modernity was added through hair color – although the pastels seemed to be inspired by the 50’s, the shades were toned into a more pale, dusty, grown-up palette. „Every girl was wearing at least one or two fabrics in the show that were matching the hair color,” tells colorist Josh Wood, „It was the biggest color project I have ever worked on.”
Each shade was a unique mix, playing into beauty’s most important current trend: Individualism.

Drama, Baby: Salmon-colored dress, sparkly ruffles and fluffy hair.

More is more: Sunny eyeshadow, soft satin and white lace.

Thanks to his eccentric vison, the whole presentation barely felt commercial and hardly minimal. Marc Jacobs created a striking dimension in design and beauty, taking it to the max – and living the dream.

Almost done: Floating ponytail right before being released for the show.

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