Presented in the marble Hall of Records in Manhattan’s Surrogate Courthouse during New York Fashion Week, the label Sies Marjan balanced louder tones and romantic flows in beauty and fashion.

Ultra-glossy rose red, satin-shimmering, bleached pink, matte, tan nude, powdered purple, emerald, high-shine green –  designer Sander Lak played with make-up and nail polish inspired tones for the Sies Marjan Spring Summer 2020 collection. Elegant and elaborated, his take on beauty wasn’t the usual echo of girly popping parlor pinks.

 

Shades could have been taken from a plushy 70s boudoir, but combined with lavish new silhouettes, they were faded  into a new, modern ballad. Romantic, but not soft (although silk and satin were flowing around shoulders and legs), a bit synth, but still sensual.
This tone was also composed through the actual make-up by artists Nami Yoshida: through precisely red-glossed pouts and dusty neon blush from brows, temples to cheeks. YSL-in-the-80s inspired, but also mixed with natural skin, faces felt fashion forward too.

Hairstylist Duffy reflected the same subtle retro beat with hair: simple, straight middle partings and flattened manes, gelled back dos and loosely defined waves as glossy as coats, nails and lips ruled the catwalk. Darker shades have been colored with a chestnut mousse before the defilée – intensifying contrasts through cushiony textures seems to function as the chorus of the show.

[Editor]
Laura Dunkelmann
[Photo]
siesmarjan.com / Laura Dunkelmann
September 23, 2019
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