BEST OF BEAUTY – Paris Fashion Week AW23

Dries van Noten | via Instagram @lucyjbridge

Another fashion week has come to an end, wrapping up in Paris. We saw some debuts with beauty looks that insinuated a historic stopover but also included giant neurotic spider lashes on top and bottom. Find some of this season’s best-loved looks, with nods to  subcultures, tribute and the reimagining of past styles.


Dries van Noten | via Instagram @lucyjbridge
Dries van Noten | via Instagram @sammcknight1

Dries Van Noten’s AW23 womenswear presentation was a forthright anecdote about the relationship between garment and wearer and proved to be distinctly grounding and soberly restorative. Matching the collection’s energy, MUA Lucy Bridge opted between ultra-thin liners and spidery lash extensions, which we’ve been seeing cropping up a lot this season. As for the hair, Sam McKnight added some ‚faux face framing layers‘ to regale each model’s features individually, denoting them as ‚cool girls with an edge.‘


Coperni has been on everybody’s lips since the viral appearance of its SS23 collection featuring the spray-on dress, that would eventually adhere to Bella Hadid’s figure. This season, the show’s accompanying wow effect was not to be missed either. Fara Homidi created enchanted beauty looks reminiscent of fables. One fable, in particular, was the reference point for this; The Wolf and The Lamb. Amid roaming models and robot dogs, hues of charcoal and brown tones were worked onto eyes and lips and were given a smudged finish. Backstage, the skin was prepped with La Mer’s latest formula, its ‚Moisturizing Soft Cream‘ also dubbed Miracle Broth (genius). Homidi goes on to elaborate on how she created a seamless base, “The natural and youthful quality of the skin is a main focus as everyone needs to look effortless.” And they did.


Schiaparelli | via Instagram @schiaparelli

Led under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, Italian couture house Schiaparelli, introduced its first ready-to-wear collection for AW23. The collection featured the house’s defining surrealist elements and oozed conceptual strength. With the trope, „divine skin meets sublime smoke“, MUA PatMcGrath brought about chiseled looks with poignant facial contours and even more depth with an all-around black kohl kajal; an ever-recurring trend that we see enduring this year.


Jilla Kortleve & Mona Tougaard | via

Cool girls at Chanel AW23; in the truest sense of the word. Not perhaps because we are referring to an autumnal collection, which is ascribed to more muted tones anyway. Instead, the frosty, cool-toned eyelids are reminiscent of the supermodel heyday of the ’90s. Chanel MUA Lisa Butler uses a two-shade meld of grays from the LES 4 OMBRES 334 MODERN GLAMOUR palette and blends it into the inner corner of the eye, introducing more depth, in lieu of setting a brighter touch.


Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood | via Instagram @isamayabeauty

Some tears were shed at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s AW23 showcase. Paying homage to Dame Westwood, the late designer’s much-revered looks inspired the season, starting with Isamaya Ffrench’s interpretation of powdered skin, golden speckles, and multi-toned lines across the models’ faces. Ffrench further alludes to the way make-up was applied, recreating the looks in the same way as Vivienne did on herself, she expresses on Instagram, „I think we just want to take some little references to some of the ways she used eyeliner pencils and metallics. Not everybody has a look, some people are just naturally themselves.“ Said looks exuded new wave, the lingering non-conformity, and the loose-handed punk approach that will prevail even beyond Vivienne’s lifetime.


For Louis Vuitton’s latest womenswear presentation at Musée d’Orsay, Make-up prodigy Pat McGrath opts for rows of these mirrored applications strung beneath some of the Models‘ bottom lash lines, as an allegory of the ever-changing digital age. The graphic eyes corresponded to an else wise discreet look with hints of pink blush using her namesake makeup brand. Mirrored appliqués added a rather utopian touch to these looks. Not that we‘re planning on giving up glitter, but these facial embellishments are guaranteed to put on a light show.


VICTORIA BECKHAM | via Instagram @farahomidi

For her second Paris Fashion Week, Victoria Beckham emulsified both, mature tailoring and eclectic draping. Beckham, who’s otherwise known for her signature smokey eye diverted for macaron lilacs and sunflower yellows, wherein; Key MUA Fara Homidi applied ample strokes of VB Beauty’s newly launched and runway-inspired EyeWear Cream Shadow Stick along models’ lower lash line. The looks are resembling of a flicked, upside-down eyeliner as Homidi further explains, “You would normally wear it on top, so we wanted to kind of reverse that.”


BALMAIN | via Instagram @sammcknight1

Olivier Rousteing’s presentation struck me as a reference to the houses beginnings. Models strut in beautifully composed looks that were reminiscent of Balmain’s cinched waists from the 50s and 60s. It was gratifying but not surprising to see how hair stylist Sam McKnight aligned the looks for the season with just that. Low ponytails were prepped into vertical loops, then cinched in the middle to create a bow; the “Vertibow” as McKnight points out. Dyson provided the heat for creating these compact knots. Meanwhile, Isamaya Ffrench banked on radiant skin and a subtle gloss to the lips.


Chenpeng | via Instagram @olivierschawalder
Chenpeng | via Instagram @nitta_kelechi

Another debut at PFW: LVMH prize finalist Peng Chen set out an all-black collection that drew inspiration from his Chinese heritage. Hair stylist Olivier Schawalder lanced thickly braided hair through a single-breasted chignon, adding a western edge to old-dynasty hairstyles. Valentina Li gave the models iridescent pigmented lids, and lips while embellishing one of the model’s faces with roses; the latter deemed a „testimony to love and eternity“. 


Kiko Kostadinov | via Instagram @olivierschawalder

Laura and Deanna Fanning’s showcase for Kiko Konstadinov AW23 was a jovial salute to girlhood. The twins stipulated on washed-out shades, and tactile layering, complicit with elements of knitwear. The beauty looks declared an utter volte-face;  Cécile Paravina applied extra-long individual lashes on upper and lower lashes while hair stylist Olivier Schawalder banked on punky bowl cuts. 

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März 17, 2023
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