DIESEL
Diesel revealed what has been a secret for so long… and live-streamed all the preparations for the Fall/Winter 2024 Show in the 72h in advance to their show. Everyone with internet access could witness the casting of the models, fittings with Glenn and his team and the final changes in the studio, moments before the show. “Diesel is a Fashion-Democracy. So it’s natural for us to reveal what would normally remain hidden,” said Glenn Martens, Creative Director of Diesel. Another 1.000 guests joined the show on giant screens – the ultimate fashion zoom call with everyone watching everything. The main act, Diesel’s Fall/Winter 2024 Collection, was quintessential Diesel: classics such as devoré jersey, this time burnt out as if the heat of the body has taken over, and denim in all possible variations; printed, layered, torn or burned. New features include thick knit that is heavily matted to create a fur-like volume, as well as faux fur tucked under a layer of mesh. At the end, screenshots of the still running zoom call make it onto the catwalk printed on jersey of tops and dresses. Glenn Martens has once again managed to add yet another dimension to the multidimensional world of Diesels. But will he blow up the Matrix soon?
FENDI
Roman luxury and Chupa Chups? Yes, you’re reading that right. This season Fendi showcased an accessory with only one purpose: to make your lollypops match the outfit. In his three years at Fendi Creative Director Kim Jones merges his british nonchalance with the historical heritage of Fendi. From simple to theatrical, city to country, salon to the street – these contrasts combine in the Fendi-Woman who is all about doing something rather than just being something. This duality is reflected in the collection: soft knitwear is layered on shiny leather, thick wool on transparent tulle and two tones of denim in the same item. An ongoing tight waist brings a sense of movement and freedom to the mix whereas history comes with roman motives and the overall artisanal leather power Fendi possesses. Practical and playful, Fendi is all about expressing your character. And if that involves a Chupa Chups – It should better be a stylish one!
ETRO
Black at Etro? Groundbreaking… Marco de Vincenzo senses a need for intense emotions in the air and sets sails for the darker side of the Etro world. Inspired by Homer’s Odyssee, the venue of the Fall/Winter 2024 Collection features oversized masks of greek tragedies in dimmed light. Muted colors from earthy tones to pitch black (a first at Etro!) form the corpus of the collection. On the hunt for something different, Marco makes use of sample prints of antique fabrics or antique artifacts like talismans in necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Silhouettes were kept fluid and played with asymmetries and draping. The iconic paisley pattern is re-staged in a roughly meshed knit and gold prints lighten up on the dark textiles. One of the highlights of the collection are the jacquard stockings in cooperation with Wolford, which bring the patterns directly onto the skin. This collection took courage, but with intricate textile treatments, layered patterns, embellishments and embroidery, it’s still quintessential Etro.
FERRARI
Once you’ve mastered your field of expertise, it’s only natural to take on a new challenge. And after decades of constructing and designing the fastest (and chic-est!) cars on this planet, Ferrari is heading towards the ultimate machine: the human body. Opening with 9 looks in rosso corsa – the Ferrari Fall/Winter 2024 Collection is passion right from the start! Turning to looks in pitch black, their mix of matt and shiny surfaces catch and play with the light until it dematerializes throughout the collection. Soft grey tailoring comes with strong shoulders and a fitted waist. Draped satin fabrics and see-through organza stand in contrast to light cashmere knitwear. Denim is treated with resin to create a glass patina. Leather is painted by hand and silk is interwoven with metal. It’s Rocco Ianonne’s 6th collection for Ferrari and everything feels a bit extra sexy, extra chic, extra elegant. The light, the energy, the body – the desire is here! And who can’t afford a Ferrari (yet!), can at least dress like one.
FERRAGAMO
Does history repeat itself? It better not! But fashion and style is constantly looking to the past to create the future. This time Maximilian Davis glanced to the 1920s to inspire his Fall/Winter 2024 Collection for Ferragamo: “The 1920s used clothing as a way to celebrate freedom – and that expression of freedom is something which resonates with me, with my heritage, and with Ferragamo.” It’s the founding decade of Ferragamo and an era in which women redefined themselves and cities like Berlin and Paris offer guard to openly queer humans around the world. This freedom found its expression in fashion codes like raised hems and fluid fabrics, relaxed cuts and dropped waists. Yet, the collection opens with a variety of olive looks that give quite the military feel. Turning to more transparent materials, feathered finishes and sequinned embroideries the military vibe clears eventually and makes room for a women that can choose to dress ultra feminine or maskuline, however she pleases. Very contemporary! And with most looks in monochrome colours, the collection is very easy on the eye. Free, empowered, but still polite.
