LD: It’s also a chance because this way you can maintain – and control – the visual quality of your brand, too.
FM: Exactly. But it also means launching a brand today is a way more intense than it used to be. If you want to become big, you have to create a clear image. You have to exist on so many platforms that replace the press. You have to have the will to exist.
Many of the brands – whether fashion brands, beauty brands or others – they all have to come up with a seamless image.
LD: So brands have to create magic…
FM: I think a few people are still interested in buying something different, buying a story. Only if you buy it again, it means that you are into it. That means, that the perfumers ddi their job well. It’s never personal. It is for people around. It makes you a more interesting Person.
LD: Have you ever been thinking about creating perfume by yourself?
FM: I’m not classically trained in perfumery. But of course I educated myself a bit. So, I know the notes. I’ve been working thirty years in the perfumery business now, I can read a form, I can understand it all. But I am also lucky to work with the best perfumers in the world. I share my fantasy with them. They take that and illustrate my dreams. I rather have somebody do that for me. I am not a big artist. But I am a very good smelling partner. And that’s why they want to work with me. There is a difference between being a good creator and a good elevator.
LD: Are you never afraid of being disappointed? You obviously have a strong vision…
FM: Yes of course! There are a lot of tears in these perfumes, a lot of disappointment. Many mistakes. Many false hopes. Then you try to understand why it happened and you go on. Then you go back and try something else. It is always about exploring.
LD: Are you more into creating something new or something beautiful?
FM: I think a perfume has to be beautiful. A perfume cannot be sad. We always try to be new as well. But it is an interesting question. I am more and more obsessed with the idea of creating new things in this business. Even if it’s a new category. New interpretations.
LD: It is hard to reinvent, isn’t it?
FM: Yes, it is hard. But we never rest. Everyone who is coming to the store is different. What is good for you is maybe not good for the rest. We know we have a collection that is not for everyone. But it is also a chance for us to find new clients.
LD: You have a very special consultation service.
FM: It is the same for years. People want that experience. What happens in the stores is the most important. We don’t want people to return our products. It has to go with your dress, the way you wear your makeup, or your behaviour – but you also have to understand how people see you. You have to get to know them. Now that we’ve talked a bit and I’ve seen you more, I feel different from what I first saw. I didn’t see that tattoo before (laughs and points on the heart at my underarm).
You try to understand the logic of each person. Everyone is a project. Perfume is a language that everyone can speak, and no one can understand. You buy perfume and you feel comfortable, but you don’t really know why and in fact you don’t know what the perfume is communicating.
LD: So you try to translate.
FM: A little bit. I could say: Maybe it is that perfume. But if you want a little bit sexier – take this or that one. It is just observation. I am trying to understand each customer. That is huge for us. There are super artistic creations I just want to launch. If someone says that they don’t work, I don’t care – there will be someone who they match with.
LD: You would find the right person to wear it.
FM: Exactly. Some think it is a cool brand, others say it’s not so hip and they buy something else. Total freedom. It is freedom for perfumers. It is freedom for clients, for customers.
I just go forward. I am not like someone who works for a big company. I work with artists. But I also do the business of course.