Kaliardos' power couple: Eyeshadow Douro and Powermatte Lip Pigment in Don't Stop - both by NARS

Benjamin Lozovsky
Laura Dunkelmann
September 25, 2018

The tone of time

Nars Key-Artist James Kaliardos created magical make-up  with a bold Papageno-palette for Rodarte’s SS19 show.

One for every skin tone: "This red really looked good on every model", told Kaliardos.

Canary yellow, bright flamingo pink and peacock blue eyeshadow united with cardinal-colored lips and full bouquets of lush roses woven into nymphy manes, combined with specular, foiled frocks and endlessly layered fine lace: With their Spring Summer 2019 collection the design duo Rodarte paired a 80s Partygirl-Style with a Papageno-Palette. It felt like the catwalk was an opera stage – the only thing missing was a heavy velvet. But presenting this burst of color, finishes and textures through pouring rain in a cemetery on the lower eastside added dreaminess and drama – perfected by Chet Baker chanting “Except when soft rains fall…” from the recording “I get along without you very well”.

Clear vision: Eyeshadow Baby Jane by Nars.

A mix like this could easily be overwhelming, especially the make-up look.

And at the first glance, the bold brights on lips and lids are not an inspiration for an everyday style.
But times are about to change; women are seeking positivity and intensity again, also in make-up. The mood of the moment, not only at Rodarte, is more joyous Iris Apfel than grumpy 90s Kate Moss.
But it needs a pro like James Kaliardos, a Nars Key Make-up-Artist, to break a look like this down and switch on the right shades.

Kaliardos found a balance – by looking at the composition of modern art. “I was inspired by the ‘Picasso 1932—Love, Fame, Tragedy exhibiton’ at the Tate Modern”, he told TUSH.
The hues were intense just like in the painter’s pictures, they were applied in almost organic yet geometric, Piccaso-esque shape; but softly blended like fine feathers overlaying model’s lids. The velvety, ultra even, perfected skin, with a hint of rosewood blush, toned down the intensity of color combination – like smooth brush strokes, this created a perfect base for Kaliardos’ artwork.

Like a true artist, he focused on colors and technique alike, prepping lids with primer and using a flat brush to dab on the powdery eyeshadow and combing brows carefully. Keeping one finish – matte – to the whole face played into the balance as well and brought grace to a look that could have otherwise been clowny.

The dramatic quality of this show – from clothes to hair to make-up – this show made us want to wander around with a least some bold eyelids. Not only to the opera and to a cemetery, but also in everyday life. We certainly can’t along without these colors anymore.

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