The interplay between designers and MUAs has always been indispensable to intricate storytelling; during fashion week more than ever. While this season’s beauty looks have brought on many insta-bait moments, we are yet to see which of them will prevail.

Simone Rocha presented her AW23 womens‘ and – menswear collection with an ultra-dollish poise. Inspired by her Irish heritage, the designer showcased an iteration of „Lughnasadh“, the pagans’ harvest festival. Berry-tinted lips, clusters of hay, and sparsely curled stands of particularly outgrown bangs forged a somewhat gloomy character. While hairstylist Cyndia Harvey played with the idea of worn-out, „no-haircut“ forms, Thomas de Kluyver exchanged concealer with delicate bow appliqués.

Christened„Dark Web“, Mowalola Ogunlesi’s AW23 presentation was a critical examination of the technological tide and its fickle ways of propelling those already in power. The intentional use of logos such as the reworking of MoMa into MoWa was a rather satirical commentary on the socioeconomic state of the world, hence the apocalyptic feel. The makeup served „alien realness“ as MUA Isamaya Ffrench made sure that skin was looking extra dewy, and worked micro LED sfx on some of the models‘ faces.

The Richard Quinn showcase was a real flutter of sensations. With this season’s anything-but-dull, floral draped dresses and an even posher blooming set, the CSM graduate amassed kinky gimps with bridal gowns and elegant veils. Terry Barber skimped on mascara and went heavy on the eyes with decadent applications of lilac, cadet grey, and ethereal blues using the new MAC by Richard Quinn palette. As for the hair, Sam McKnight emulated a „futuristic take on 1930‘s Hollywood romance“ using his eponymous haircare line. Sharp finger waves might make a comeback after all.

Matty Bovan’s presentation at Langan exuded „baroque sci-fi hardcore“. The collection, comprised of upcycled and custom-made pieces, had a maximalist yet poignant spirit while taking a step further toward lush layering. Ribbons, belts, and labyrinthine spun yarns adorned the dotted garments making Bovan’s aversion to perfectionism all the more apparent. The makeup looks aligned seamlessly with the idiosyncratic mood. MUA Miranda Joyce left faces rather natural and bare-looking while getting handsy with theatrical brushstrokes around the eyes.

Chet Lo found light in the darkness with “Bioluminescence”. The show encompassed his hallmark spike-pattern textures (how else could it be) that MUA Isamaya Ffrench slickly picked up on, with wispy lashes stacked “in abstract places around the eye”. Food coloring provided a pop of color on models’ tongues and seemingly a sh*tload of fun backstage, where hair was worked into ornate braids and extra large bows by Anna Cofone.

David Koma’s AW23 Show at London Fashion Week set off in a blaze of Red. In an uproar of strong silhouettes, inspired by icons like Marlene Dietrich, the designer explores the glamour of the 20th century. MUA Patrick Glatthaar chimes in with the ubiquitous power of an alluring red lip and adds a dozen rhinestones on the bottom half. Albeit romantic, the look is balanced by an else wise natural face and gelled-back manes.

As delicate as they come – for fall Nensi Dojaka could noway forgo her very sheer tulle reverie. Meanwhile, Lucia Pica brought about a very toned-down interpretation of Goth-inspired makeup. To create a gloomy eye, Pica who earlier last year took over as Byredo’s creative image and makeup partner, applied berry-toned shades from her first endeavor with the brand; her “State of Emotion” eyeshadow palette.