Young, vibrant and free – this comes to mind when breathing air in Berlin. And it’s what BFW sets apart from its international siblings. Where big business is competing, Berlin goes for creativity.

It’s my first time at Berlin Fashion Week. After attending Milan and Paris for years, Berlin has never been on my agenda. Ignored, disregarded, incomparable with Paris or Milan – an opinion so very german of me, I think. Unsure of what to expect, Fashion Council Germany set up an agenda and passed me around. And thanks to that, my viewpoint changed.

After these three days at BFW I came to realize that designers showcased here slowly but surely develop something you might call… a „German“ style?! So far it’s just a breeze of melancholia, playful yet serious at the same time, political, eco friendly and very well constructed.
These few days made me proud.

by @simonriepe

First one up, ODEEH. Since 2009 Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich excite with their distinctive way of combining colors and patterns on extraordinary materials. So opening and closing their SS24 show with all white looks came as a statement. „A new chapter“ the two designers called this collection and caused a heavy focus on silhouettes. A relaxed elegance with an accentuated waistline came in easy shirt dresses as well as sequince skirts under tied up blouses or blazers. The flowing volume giving room for comfort didn’t miss a second of chicness. But the fun is carried by prints. From block stripes to collages, tropical motives and floral patterns. The ODEEH Woman expresses her freedom, in colour and comfort.

„Trautes Heim, Glück allein“ („Sweet home, happiness alone“) is embroidered on the back of a mens look at RICHERT BEIL. Little hint, as they were joining Berlin Fashion Week after a bit of a break? Time well spent, I would say as this collection felt their most elevated to date. Jale Richert and Michele Beil are known for their deconstruction of suits in particular, which they delivered. Only this time surrounded by a melancholic narrative rooted in German history. Old lacework, books bound together by a leatherbelt, a butcher apron and rubber boots filled with water. „Vater, Unser“ they baptized this collection. The German feel was presented by a genuine diverse cast and rounded up with leather and latex – ‚cause it’s Berlin after all. 

New to Berlins fashion game is MARKE. Mario Keine from Cologne just founded his brand during Covid. Bold move. But what feels more striking to me is the fact that he is taking us on a journey on inner reflection. Still developing his signature, Mario is proud of talking about the process behind his brand. Included in his creative unfolding, it’s his honesty that makes us feel a part of it. At the same time, his clothes are ready to be sold: perfectly finished denim sets, sailor inspired coats and shirts with german folklore elements. And in between, little hints to happy childhood memories such as his own kindergarden scribbles – Mario went back to his very own beginnings to start strong.  

Rosa Marga Dahl’s collection was much easier on the eye than the pronunciation of her brand SF1OG for the international audience. But let them tangle their tongues, this show was worth it. The subtle equestrian elements went from riding boots and sleeves with pony hair to a casual, black whip. Dr.Martens covered in mud. Old German lacework in black or white styled with upcycled leather sets and horse puppets on strings. Surrounded by this dark melancholy, the models walked through the sharp, silver patio of the former Berlin Stock Exchange with classic piano playing live. I never had Goosebumps in an office space before. 

No goosebumps, just pure joy – Namilia closed Berlin Fashion Week at Kronprinzenpalais. The promising title of this fashion party: „In Loving Memory of My Sugar Daddy“. With this being said, there was no serious runway possible. The provocative slogans, latex outfits and sassy models found their echo in an audience applauding, cheering and laughing. Black widows carrying crosses in their labs. Dresses, bras and slips showing fake Birkin Bags. The most diverse and empowering cast flashing messages such as: „Cunting Season“ or „No Gag Reflex“. This collection was made in Berlin for Berlin creating a hype that becomes addictive. Such fun!