Paris Fashion Week F/W 19/20:

Thom Browne

We’re familiar with most of Thom Browne’s obsessions: tailoring, uniform(ity) and multiplication. Another one is his fascination for the « office aesthetics ». A kind of weird grey neutrality prevailing in all Thom Browne’s shops and corners around the world and, today, in the set for his show with the standardized desks, old typing machines and slat blinds. It could be anywhere anytime, New York or Leipzig, but probably in the mid sixties. In this theatrical and mathematical show for FW2019/2020, everything was about menswear tailoring….for women. All the usual codes are displayed in various combinations, from monochrome grey to tweed, including the Victor dog shaped bag and the black briefcases and brogues striped with the French flag. The other topic of the season at Thom Browne was a tribute to Lorraine Brooks, a symbolist américan painter and Una Troubridge, a British sculptor and translator famous for her longterm partnership with the poet Marguerite « John » Radclyffe Hall. The lesbian chic factor was translated into beauty statements (bare face with strong eyebrows and clean sleek hair) and the overall masculinity but also in trompe l’oeil embroideries and spectacular golden monocles.

Laurent Dombrowicz
März 5, 2019
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