New York Fashion Week F/W 19/20

MARC JACOBS

In a moment when we thought the no-make-up and out-of-bed hair was finally done – it was done again, literally. Marc Jacobs  – and Guido Palau for hair, Diane Kendall in make-up –  created exactly what we just waved good bye. Hair that was kept almost carelessly natural,  often hidden under hats and bonet-style caps and skin had no signs of make–up, the complexion was only evened out with cream and subtle slicks of foundation. „Normal“ one could say – “Nonchalant Sophistication” was how Guido Palau descirbed it – and stated that he used one single product for it: Redken’s Triple Dry Texture Spray.
In a world full of contouring and glistening highlighters, shiny filters and fake hair, this nudity – both in hair and face –  feels refreshing and more extreme than any overdrawn lip or mile high updo.
It just puts the focus on what is important to Marc Jacobs: Fashion and individual character.

by Laura Dunkelmann

Was really the best for last ? Yes and no. As some of his  heroes from the 80s like Anne Marie Beretta and more importantly Claude Montana, Marc Jacobs loves operatic fashion shows. By coincidence -or not really-, Farfetch has announced today the release of a capsule collection imagined by Gareth Pugh based on some of Montana’s most famous designs. Compared to his last two seasons, Marc Jacobs has a bit turned down the color extravaganza and displayed various (but never minimalistic) volumes and proportions. The ruffles, floral prints, faux fur and retro maxi coats are often very seducing but not ultimately cohesive. Jacobs has never tried to hide his sincere admiration for some of his pairs, from Muccia Prada to Pierpaolo Piccioli. We’re all very fine with that. But, behind the emotional grandiloquence of his show, he appears more as a fantastic curator rather than as a designer.

By Laurent Dombrowicz

Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 19
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 19
Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 19
"Triply Dry 15" finishing spray by Redken
[Text Beauty]
Laura Dunkelmann
[Text Fashion]
Laurent Dombrowicz
[Pictures]
PR
Februar 15, 2019

TUSH 44

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